![]() ![]() Take the paper underneath the entire warp (both heddles are in neutral at this point) and start to wiggle and jam it into place. It may be easiest for you to pop around the back of your loom with the paper to get close to the warp. ![]() This provided me with a bit of thickness, but not too much. I folded the paper to the approximate width of the loose warp section so that the paper had been folded about 4 times. There are several materials you can use for wedging (like cardboard separators, cut to size) but I chose to use everyday A4 printing paper. If I wedges all the way across the warp at this point, that would also increase the tension in the mid section, where it is not needed. For me, that was either side of the middle section, towards the edges. ![]() I start out by identifying the areas that need help. This is very quick and easy to do and can make a big difference to your tension. I’ve covered wedging before, as you can see in this video:īut I also wanted to get a bit more specific about wedging problem areas in your warp. And for double width weaving, that can be a huge headache! This began interfering with the “cleanness” of my sheds, meaning that not all my warp threads were settling into position well when I changes sheds. When I started weaving, I found that my tension was firmer in the middle than on either side. I warped independently, which is do-able but not 100% ideal when you’re using thicker threads and those threads are doubled. For further information, see my disclosure policy. There are many challenges to achieving great warp tension, but the good news is that practice helps a lot and this is something you will improve on over time.īut, even for the seasoned weaver, there can be the occasional curve ball just to keep us humble □ For me, that was a recent double width project on my rigid heddle loom. In an ideal world we would have perfect tension every time we warp our looms, but that is just not realistic!
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